From sburke at burkesys.com Sat Jul 5 13:38:49 2008 From: sburke at burkesys.com (Stephen Burke) Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 13:38:49 +0100 (IST) Subject: [Kartbuilding] question about throttle In-Reply-To: <000001c8dc5a$3297b6b0$6501a8c0@v4g0d1> References: <000001c8dc5a$3297b6b0$6501a8c0@v4g0d1> Message-ID: Hi, If there is no throttle cable on your engine powered lawn mower, you will need to do some investigation on your engine. Is there an "air filter" or "air box" on the lawn mower engine? E.g: See Step 8 on this lawn mower page: http://www.rd.com/familyhandyman/content/17656/ Underneath the air filter will be the carburetor, and attached to this will be a "butterfly valve". After removing the air filter and looking in, you may be able to see this circular flap/valve. See: http://www.kartbuilding.net/gallery/v/Kart_Clearance_and_Memories/DSC01243.JPG.html If you could carefully run the engine, and move this adjustor/valve via a lever on the outside of the carburetor, it should speed up the engine. Once you have discovered what lever/adjustor changes the speed/throttle of the engine, you will then have to connect up a cable to move this lever/adjuster from the foot pedal. Its a little confusing and a bit of work. If you had a "lawn mower" rental place, they would know all about those engines and would be able to help you. Best of Luck, -steve On Wed, 2 Jul 2008, Kathy Crowe wrote: > I found your website and building the wooden lawn mower engine powered cart. > You said that the best way to control the throttle is by the throttle lever > off of a lawn mower. The engine I'm using is old an doesn't have a throttle > lever, it's just the blade that moves and u have to push it yourself. Do u > have any suggestions on how I should control the throttle? > > > > P.S. the sooner you could get your website updated, the better. Is there > anything I need to know? > > From sburke at burkesys.com Sat Jul 5 13:41:27 2008 From: sburke at burkesys.com (Stephen Burke) Date: Sat, 5 Jul 2008 13:41:27 +0100 (IST) Subject: [Kartbuilding] your mail In-Reply-To: <20080628191552.C854F11581F@ws1-7.us4.outblaze.com> References: <20080628191552.C854F11581F@ws1-7.us4.outblaze.com> Message-ID: Hi Brett, All the information I have on making a simple go-cart is on my website. Specifically the following page has the information you are looking for: http://www.kartbuilding.net/Wooden_Go-Kart_Plans/index.html Best of Luck, -steve On Sat, 28 Jun 2008, Brett Bruns wrote: > me and a friend of mine want to build a simple go-cart that doesnt have > an engine and made wood that you can steer so i was hoping you could help > me with that so email me back, -brett From sburke at burkesys.com Wed Jul 16 13:19:21 2008 From: sburke at burkesys.com (Stephen Burke) Date: Wed, 16 Jul 2008 13:19:21 +0100 (IST) Subject: [Kartbuilding] Question from article In-Reply-To: <487D52C5.2010702@gmail.com> References: <487D52C5.2010702@gmail.com> Message-ID: Hi Darin, Thanks for your email. If you are making the chassis wider, you will only need to modify the ackerman angle so that both steering arms point to the middle of the rear axle. ( see http://www.kartbuilding.net/racingkart/Old_Racing_Kart/ackerman.htm ) As for the track rods, it does not matter if they get longer or whether the steering-drop arm is in the middle. E.g.: http://www.kartbuilding.net/racingkart/Free_Racing_Kart_Plans_PDF/Main_Kart_Complete_12_Front_Steering_End.pdf I hope this answers your question. If you have any other questions just shout. Best of luck, -steve On Tue, 15 Jul 2008, Darin Mays wrote: > Hello, > > I read your article > (http://blog.kartbuilding.net/2007/07/12/steering-geometry-and-setup-for-go-karts/) > on steering geometry and have a question I'm hoping you can help me with. > I'm looking to build a two person go kart and have the steering wheel > centered in front of the driver, rather than the kart center (like a single > person kart would). With this in mind, how, if at all, do I need to modify > the angle of the kin pins to achieve a true Ackerman angle? Do both need to > keep the same angle, pointing to the center of the back axle? Or do they > need to differ to adjust for the off-center steering wheel? > > Any advice would be greatly appreciated! > -Darin > From sburke at burkesys.com Mon Jul 21 18:34:20 2008 From: sburke at burkesys.com (Stephen Burke) Date: Mon, 21 Jul 2008 18:34:20 +0100 (IST) Subject: [Kartbuilding] Go Kart Help In-Reply-To: <9fcd4fd00807161114g213ad81bha0f29511c267572@mail.gmail.com> References: <9fcd4fd00807161114g213ad81bha0f29511c267572@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Hi Andres, I suggest you ask someone living beside you to help you out with the kart. Even if its a neighbour, they might be interested in giving you a hand and have some fun building the kart. Best of luck, -steve On Wed, 16 Jul 2008, Andres Hurtado wrote: > I recently bought a used out-of-shape go-kart frame, it has no engine and I > need help re-building it from scratch. I'm planing to get new brakes and > everything. I was wondering if you could help me rebuild it, because I don't > even know were anything goes. > > > > PLEASE HELP, ANDRES > From sburke at burkesys.com Sat Jul 26 21:56:30 2008 From: sburke at burkesys.com (Stephen Burke) Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 21:56:30 +0100 (IST) Subject: [Kartbuilding] wheelbarrow wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi, Yes - I removed the bearing from the Wheelbarrow. This left a large hole (roughly 25mm or 1 inch in diameter, give or take a couple of millimeters) where I could put the axle through and weld. See: http://www.kartbuilding.net/gallery/v/Off-Road_Kart/DSC04620.JPG.html If I ever had to remove the wheel or axle (which I didnt), I could always have easily grinded off the weld using an angle grinder. If the hole left in the wheelbarrow is too large after the bearing is removed, you can insert a "bushing" or a larger piece of metal pipe to fill the gap. E.g.: http://www.kartbuilding.net/gallery/v/Karting_Tools_and_Equipment/Parts_and_Components/DSC02333.JPG.html If you can find a 1.5inch diameter pipe, it may fit inside the wheelbarrow hub, and in turn the axle may fit inside the piece of pipe. If the gap is very small (2mm in the difference) you could try cutting a coke can, and rolling up the aluminium around the axle to fill the gap. Then weld the steel axle to the wheelbarrow hub. I hope this helps. If you have any other questions etc. just let us know. Best of Luck, -steve On Fri, 25 Jul 2008, jam marsh wrote: > > i would like to know how did u get the wheel barow wheel welded to the axle . did u remove the bearing?. i removed mine and the internal diameter was 1 6/16" internal diameter so where did u get the 25 mm wheel barrow wheel from . > _________________________________________________________________ From sburke at burkesys.com Sat Jul 26 21:58:52 2008 From: sburke at burkesys.com (Stephen Burke) Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 21:58:52 +0100 (IST) Subject: [Kartbuilding] Go kart Questions In-Reply-To: <20080720175033.KQJQ11636.eastrmmtao101.cox.net@eastrmimpo01.cox.net> References: <20080720175033.KQJQ11636.eastrmmtao101.cox.net@eastrmimpo01.cox.net> Message-ID: Hi Tom, Sorry for the slow reply. Im afraid that I dont have any more details or plans for using a lawn mower engine, apart from those on my website at: http://www.kartbuilding.net/woodenkart/index.html If you have any specific question, just email me and I will try to answer it for you. Best of luck, -steve On Sun, 20 Jul 2008, TomRoach wrote: > I have an old lawn mower engine and was wondering if you have the parts, > instructions, and advice to help me do this. Please send back? > > Tom Roach > 56 Brandywine Place > Southington, CT From sburke at burkesys.com Sat Jul 26 22:06:43 2008 From: sburke at burkesys.com (Stephen Burke) Date: Sat, 26 Jul 2008 22:06:43 +0100 (IST) Subject: [Kartbuilding] go kart advice In-Reply-To: <560311.76296.qm@web28207.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <560311.76296.qm@web28207.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi, If the centrifugal clutches burned out very quickly, then yes - the gearing is incorrect. Did the second-hand kart look like the one on this page: http://www.kartbuilding.net/gallery/v/Commercial_Karts-Photos_and_Details/ If so, then typically these karts are designed to run on the flat, and they have a slow take-off with high top end speed. Typically centrifugal clutches on karts have 10 teeth, and 60-70 on the rear axle. Typical centrifugal clutch and sprocket: http://www.kartbuilding.net/gallery/v/Kart_Clearance_and_Memories/DSC01032.JPG.html Your best bet would be to either get a larger sprocket for the rear axle or a smaller one for the engine/clutch. Best of Luck, -steve On Fri, 25 Jul 2008, Jenny Sage wrote: > I HAVE JUST BOUGHT A SECOND HAND GO KART WITH 2?????? 5.5 HONDA ENGINES AND THE GEAR RATIO IS FROM 20 TEETH ON THE DRIVE TO 74 ON THE BACK SPROCKETS? 1 OF THE CENTRIFUGAL CLUTCHES BURNED OUT VERY QUICKLY DO YOU THINK IT IS OVER GEARED?? STEVE > From sburke at burkesys.com Wed Jul 30 18:45:04 2008 From: sburke at burkesys.com (Stephen Burke) Date: Wed, 30 Jul 2008 18:45:04 +0100 (IST) Subject: [Kartbuilding] GoKart with brakes In-Reply-To: <000801c8f0c6$30497350$46a3ba44@TheFish> References: <000801c8f0c6$30497350$46a3ba44@TheFish> Message-ID: Hi, If your looking for instructions on the brakes for a wooden go-kart, then some information can be found on the kartbuilding website at: http://www.kartbuilding.net/woodenkart/brakes.htm If your looking for information on the brakes of a racing/off-road kart then you will find some information at: http://www.kartbuilding.net/Freeplans/brakeandsprocket.htm Step 9: http://www.kartbuilding.net/racingkart/index.html Best of luck, -steve On Mon, 28 Jul 2008, Maxine Blackledge wrote: > I have your drawings for go-cart, but I need kart with brakes. Can you E-mail me the instructions: > > maxnmissouri at charter.net > > Thanks. >