[Kartbuilding] wedling/racing cart - photos (fwd)
Stephen Burke
sburke at burkesys.com
Wed Jul 18 14:32:27 IST 2007
---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2007 13:21:57 +0000
From: Jakub Rogalewicz
To: sburke
Subject: Re: wedling/racing cart
Thankyou for your quick reply. Sorry, I forgot to attach some photos. So I
attached some of the caliper and a few of some other components I have. I
already purchased 1" tubing with a 1/8" wall; thats more or less 3mm. since the
chassis is so important in the construction of the go cart, I was thinking of
getting it professionally welded together. I suppose I can arcweld the pieces
that will not take as much strain. As for the brake, I do think that it is
simply cable operated. I have looked over your site and read everything atleast
once so I feel I am fairly familiar with everything. In the pictures you will
see the pillow block bearing I am using to hold my axle, the sprocket on the
hub, the disc and moutning bracket, a rod end for the steering, and the chain
(ASA 40 1/2" pitch) so I think it will suffice. Also included is the picture
of the engine which is not as tall as yours but is much wider and I need more
space between me and the shaft. A few more questions that I remembered are: How
do I attach the rear wheels (rims/hubs) to the rear axle? Do I permenatly weld
them to the axle? Same goes for the disc hub and the sprocket hub. The sprocket
hub has a "set screw", so if I tighten that will it be enough to stop the
sprocket from moving left and right? The disc hub does not have a set screw so
I am assuming that I need to weld it to the axle. As for the axle, will using
shaft collars with set screws be enough to hold the axle between the bearings
so it doesnt slide? Or do I need to weld the shaft collars onto the axle to
keep it in place. I understand that the front wheels are kept in place because
you are able to use a lock nut on the threaded piece of steel (or bolt with cut
off head as I have read on your site). But again I am confused about the rear,
or could I use those shaft collars and use the set screws on them to keep the
rear wheels in place, however somehow I feel that will not be strong enough.
Thanks for your patience and sorry about all the questions, but I dont want to
kill myself riding this cart.
Jakub
> Subject: Re: wedling/racing cart
> Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2007 09:50:02 +0100 (IST)
>
> Hi Jakub,
>
> Im glad you found the 3D CAD drawings of the racing go-kart useful. The
> actual kart itself was originally drawn using Autodesk Inventor, and exported
> to Solidworks, however all the sizes and information should be fine.
>
> A 13hp engine is a fairly large engine. Depending on its weight, you might
> want to increase the tubing from 25mm to 30mm for the chassis. See:
> http://www.kartbuilding.net/racingkart/Free_Racing_Kart_Plans_PDF/Main_Kart_Complete_03_Chassis.pdf
> 30mm with a wall thickness of 3-4mm would provide better support for a larger
> engine.
>
> In regards to welding the chassis together. On professional and commercial
> gokarts, the chassis is "brazed" together. This is a lower temperature weld
> which provides better flexibility on the chassis. Arcwelding can sometimes
> weaken and crack at its joints.
> In saying that, YES - I did arcweld my chassis together carefully. I used a
> 100amp stick welder, and 3.5mm welding rods. See:
> http://www.kartbuilding.net/Freeplans/images/Photos/Welder.jpg
> After a tricky start, and a 2 hour lesson, I learned how to weld properly.
> Once all the chassis is positioned together, it will only take 1-2 hours to
> weld together. But yes, I would ask your friends dad to either do the bit of
> welding himself, or ask him if you could borrow the welder, and perhaps get a
> lesson off him on how to weld properly.
>
> Onto the brakes. Depending on the type of calliper you have, it might be
> cable or fluid operated.
> This ( http://www.kartbuilding.net/Freeplans/images/Photos/DiscBrake.jpg ) is
> an example of a "cable" operated calliper. There are 2 levers where a cable
> goes through. It is secured at one end, and the other end is operated via the
> brake pedal. This is the easiest type.
> If you have a fluid operated calliper, things will be a lot more
> interesting/difficult! With a fluid calliper, you need a brake fluid
> reservoir! This is typically mounted beside the operating lever. For example
> on a motorbike, the fluid tank/reservoir is attached to the brake lever. See:
> http://www.kartbuilding.net/Freeplans/brakeandsprocket.htm
> If your calliper is fluid operated, you need to find out what
> equipment/machinery/motorbike it is designed for. You will then have to go to
> a motorbike repair shop and ask them for the hydraulic brake unit for use
> with your callipers.
> Hopefully the callipers will be cable operated, as this will make things much
> easier.
>
> As for the chain. If you use a good strong chain from a motorbike, you wont
> have any worries about tension! I initially started using bicycle chains and
> sprockets, and had a very tough time trying to keep the chain on. I tried
> putting side railings on the sprocket to try and keep the chain on. See:
> http://www.kartbuilding.net/gallery/v/Kart_Clearance_and_Memories/DSC01082.JPG.html
> If you use a motorbike chain however - the chain will not come off! unless
> the sprockets are totally out of alignment. Motorbike chains are much
> stronger and thicker, and are not designed to come off easily. See:
> http://www.kartbuilding.net/gallery/v/Kart_Clearance_and_Memories/DSC01167.JPG.html
> This image shows the difference in chains. I suggest you visit a motorbike
> store/repair shop and ask for an old or replacement chain and sprocket. You
> will not have to worry about tension.
> It would be an idea however, when mounting the engine, that you drill 4 slots
> (instead of holes) when bolting the engine to the cradle. See the bottom of:
> http://www.kartbuilding.net/Freeplans/enginemounting.htm
> This will allow for minor adjustments in the tension of the chain. I managed
> to get away without this, and I managed to remove a link in the chain to
> shorten it. I then used a split link in the chain to join it back together.
> See:
> http://www.kartbuilding.net/gallery/v/Kart_Clearance_and_Memories/DSC01230.JPG.html
>
> I hope I have answered your questions.
> Feel free to email on some pictures (of the callipers also) and I can put
> them on the kartbuilding website to help others also.
>
> Best of Luck,
> -steve
>
>
> On Wed, 18 Jul 2007, Jakub Rogalewicz wrote:
>
>> Hello,
>> My name is Jakub and I am currently building a go kart. I really like your
>> detailed plans. I have solidworks and have done 3D CAD work in the past, so
>> I really appreciate your 3D drawings and want to thankyou for releasing
>> them. I am going with more or less your design, however my cart will be a
>> bit wider as it needs to accomodate for a 13hp honda engine. My question is:
>> Today I was at a custom metal fabrication place and they told me that it is
>> not safe to weld this thing together with an arcwelder... Did you use an
>> arcwelder to build your kart? What do you recommend I do. I am 17 years old
>> and never used a welder before but my friend is willing to lend me his as
>> his dad does some welding. Is it ok to use the arc welding process? What
>> kind of stick did you use? I am using a disc break and caliper that I
>> purchased at some store... However there is no hydraulic system or anything.
>> All that comes is a disc that is previously welded to a hub, a caliper and
>> moutning bracket. Do I simply use a line to attach the lever to my break
>> pedal? Kind of like a bicycle with disc breaks. I am sending you a few
>> pictures of what this looks like. A few more questions: How do I get the
>> chain tension right.. how do I know it is not too loose or tense? I know it
>> is a lot of questions but I would really appreciate your help as I find it
>> difficult finding answers to these questions on the internet.
>> Thankyou very much.
>> Jaukb
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